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Why especially men determine what women will wear

Gender equality is in many sectors a noble pursuit, but unfortunately still a utopia. The modeindustrie is no exception, with mainly men who almost all the important functions -both business and creative – within the business for their account. Best ironic since women are the vast majority are within their customer base.

© REUTERS

Despite the rampant trend of genderneutraliteit on the catwalks behind the scenes of the sector, the women, to be rather in the minority. Karl Lagerfeld is the creative director at Chanel, Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga, Alessandro Michele for Gucci, Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud at Carven, Guillaume Henry at Nina Ricci and Jonathan Saunders at Diane von Furstenberg, but figures from Business or Fashion to go further than this sounding, well-established names, where any fashion, but what would like would want to identify with it.

The modeplatform analyzed, the designers of the vrouwenmodemerken the coming weeks their collections proposals in New York, London, Milan and Paris. It turned out that mainly men decide what women will wear.

Of the 371 designers, the pen hold in the 313 brands that Mumps examined, is only 40.2% of the female sex. Strangely enough, this imbalance also depending on the city:

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Of the brands in the French capital, showing only 37% a female designer to the head, in Milan, the percentage is even lower: 31% of the creative directors who present their work during the fashion week, is feminine.

In New York and London, primarily focusing on brands, showing that attraction to have at a younger audience, to show there is more women in their work, respectively, so n to 47.3% and 40,5%. In Paris and Milan, where the traditional and most prestigious labels showing, is the poverder made. Of the brands in the French capital, showing only 37% a female designer to the head, in Milan, the percentage is even lower: 31% of the creative directors who present their work during the fashion week, is feminine.

Not a big role

The lack of female leadership is particularly striking since the majority of people who are employed by the fashion houses, however, are women. Also under the fashion students we see still a lot of women. According to BoF was 85% of the students who in 2014 started at the New York Fashion Institute of Technology female. At the Antwerp Academy were this year, three of the six master’s students were female, in the first year of the bachelor programme was last school year, 66% of the students were female.

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“There are a lot of women where all those fashion companies to support it, but it just seems that only very few of these women progressed to the top”

“There are a lot of women where all those fashion companies to support it, but it just seems that only very few women advance to the top,” says designer Phoebe English in Business or Fashion. “Women are definitely jobs in the sector, they may simply not play an important role.”

Is that mainly due to the fact that most of these fashion labels are run by men? Beginning this summer we wrote already how most ceos and other top executives of large fashion companies to be male and now also says Mumps that of the 50 biggest fashion houses in the world, only 14% were led by a man.

Stella McCartney AW16 © REUTERS

For instance, there is the twelve managers who are part of the ‘executive committee’ of the large luxeconglomeraat LVMH only one woman was appointed – Chantal Gaemperle, head of human resources. Of the 15 fashion and lederwarenhuizen under their flag, only Donna Karan and Loewe female ceos. This trend continues in the creative part of the sector. Apart from Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s appointment as artistic director at Dior in June, only three of these 15 labels a woman who is the creative in charge: Phoebe Philo at Céline, Carole Lim at Kenzo and Florence Torrens at Thomas Pink. (Danielle Sherman stepped in may at Edun.)

In Allowance, LVMH’s biggest rival, is not much better made. Three of the nine brands under the Barrier flag currently have a female CEO Isabel Guichot from Balenciaga, Francesca Bellettini at Yves Saint Laurent and Sarah Crook at Christopher Kane. On the creative side can the conglomerate only two female toppers count: Stella McCartney with her namesake label, and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen.

The fashion industry is so clearly one where men dominate and make choices, and apparently even less likely for a woman to choose the business or creative directeursstoelen to fill.

Motherhood as a barrier

In addition, the expectations that a woman will eventually choose for the maternity benefits and the associated obligations that follow (and still is, mainly by the wife to be worn) a large barrier to success in the fashion industry.

“Careers questions today, more and more people: longer working hours and especially: constantly accessible, during all hours of the day,” says Allyson Stokes, assistant professor at the department of Knowledge Integration at the University of Waterloo. “And these high expectations and sacrifices are only higher if you top some day holds,” said Stokes to Business or Fashion.

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I have two daughters brought up, my own business and started clothing designed and each day I tried all my workers with loaf of bread on the shelf. I have always had the feeling that I have not had enough time in my day for all my roles to play, as a boss, as a designer, as a mother

The immensely busy schedule of the creative director is in the meantime well-known after including Alber Elbaz and Raf Simons , a book about open did. A personal life besides their job was not to them paid, to social obligations they had, let alone that such a top designer to a family can begin.

“Women get a lot of different tasks in their laps and have different functions,” known also designer Vera Wang. “I have two daughters brought up, my own business and started clothing designed and each day I tried all my workers with loaf of bread on the shelf. I have always had the feeling that I have not had enough time in my day for all my roles to play, as a boss, as a designer, as a mother.” It is a cry for help that we often hear from successful women, and the fact that there is an expiration date on our fertility is helps of course not.

Celine AW13 © REUTERS

The creative directorship is often assigned to a designer when that between 30 and 45 years old. If the woman in question before so still not at children began they are already almost forgotten. Some women succeed in their personal life around their career in the modelling, only a few people succeed in their job to bow to their needs, such as Phoebe Philo of Céline. She left the design studio from Paris to her home in London to move to still have time with her husband and three children to be able to spend. In 2012 deleted the label even throughout the AW12 runway show to the press for the when pregnant Philo to relieve – a nice gesture of Céline to the designer that the label on the map again and one of the most successful brands within the LVMH portfolio did grow.

Perception

A lot also has to do with perception and the way in which men and women are usually worn in the workplace, says Stokes. “Men are more vocal and dare to take more risks – and will the fact that they have a risk-taking, also louder proclaim than women. They dare also faster to raise or a promotion questions,” says Stokes.

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When I have studied were a lot of male students are very confident and so were they. They were also the people who went to knock on the large, popular fashion houses for a job and an internship

“When I graduated (from Central Saint Martins ed) were quite a lot of male students are quite confident and so were they. They were also the people who went to knock on the large, popular fashion houses for a job and an internship,” recalls Phoebe English. “I think your really brave it must be to yourself to scroll for important positions at such big houses.”

Still agree the recent appointment of Bouchra icipated in Lanvin and Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior (as the first woman at the head of that label) us optimistic about the future. “Although the vast majority of people in the sector still being male, there are gradually more and more women who have an important role to play”, shows British designer Mary Katrantzou achieved by Mumps.

Mary Katrantzou AW12 © Reuters

Kantrantzou has won the 2015 BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund, Aurora James of Brother Vellies if the 2015 CFDA/Fashion Award to take home and Johanna Senyk of Wanda Nylon won the ANDAM prize – and that in a landscape where men are usually not only figuratively but also literally, with the prices to get started.

“I wonder if there is now a new era has begun. The talent was always there, but female designers are getting more and more recognition and visibility,” says Floriane de Saint Pierre, headhunter for major fashion brands. “I think that gender is becoming less and less a role, but the vision of the designer, and how that is accompanied with a trademark.” Logic and luxelabels, ever, they will reconcile.

(via Business of Fashion, LedBetter and W Mag)

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