What one been for a while suspected is now confirmed scientifically: the (American) modellenindustrie has an eating disorder. According to research from Harvard, Northeastern University and the Model Alliance.
“Drink plenty of water and early to bed” is the standard answer when models to their schoonheidsritueel is required, and although this is, of course, the truth is that handful of girls that born with a clear skin and a body that is trouble-free in the sample sizes fits, diving there is also confessions of models who go to extremes to get their job harmless. Of the consumption of paper handkerchiefs and cotton wool to the feeling of hunger to go to taking medication: the industry calls the fictions from an unregulated past, but a new study confirms these tell tale signs of a sector with a large (eat)of the problem.
Exactly one week before the first model a toe on the catwalk of the fashion week of New York, published in the International Journal of Eating Disorders, a study by Northeastern University, Harvard T. H. Chan School of Public Health and the Model Alliance. That confirms that models are often forced to put their health on the game.
Diet pills and vomiting
The researchers subjected the 85 professional models to a questionnaire, which showed that 62% of them in the past year was asked to lose weight or their body(svorm). 54% of them was warned that they would otherwise no job would be found, 21% of those girls were then given the threat that their agency them would drop if they did not obey. 9% was the last year in plastic surgery, is proposed as a solution for their ‘defect’.
24% of the models used ‘sometimes/often/always’ diet pills, while 8% ‘sometimes/often/always’ themselves did vomiting.
The above requirements are of course not new. Even in popular television shows like America’s Top Model candidates, the question “if they are willing some pounds to fall off”, but the new study proves also how far the models are willing to go to meet those requirements. The researchers showed that 56% of the surveyed models said they were ‘sometimes/often/always’ to skip meals, while 52% in addition, yet regularly fasted, detoxte or on a cleanse. 24% of the models used ‘sometimes/often/always’ diet pills, while 8% ‘sometimes/often/always’ themselves did vomiting.
Go with the above symptoms to a doctor, and he prescribes you a treatment for your eating disorder for, with this type of attitude in the modellensector and you’re a big girl, so it seems.
It is important to note that a lot of girls in the modellenbusiness steps when they are not yet 18, and that there are only very few measures, a stable legal framework for industry, which is still thousands of employs. In 2012, fashion magazine Vogue its Health Initiative in the life called, which was signed by all twelve editors in chief from different countries. It says that they will not work with models under the age of 16 (and thus an unrealistic vision for adult women or girls who “obviously ill”, though the modegigant been regularly breaking its own rules of court. In Italy and Spain are allowed to models with low BMI, the catwalk, and in Israel girls that a career in the fashion world aspire to “a healthy weight”.
In France, the government approved in 2015 a law that the use of extremely skinny models doesn’t allow. Penalties for violation can be up to a fine of 75,000 euros and imprisonment of half a year. From 1 January 2017 models must be in France want to work a medical certificate stating that they are a healthy BMI (Body Mass Index). France wants to anorexia and glorifying them fight. The penalties for violation of the new law are severe: an employer who has yet to skinny models hires can be up to six months in prison and a fine of up to 75.000 euro.
You would be yourself, of course, also be wondering why there necessarily appeal needs to be done only slender girls, and whether we are next to the safeguard of the health of the models also do not need to strive for a broader understanding of who or what belongs on the catwalk
In our country came CDH-politician Vanessa Matz last year with a bill come up that stylists, showorganisatoren, brands, and fashion magazines are obliged to only models with a healthy BMI to employ in Belgium. The models would be in this case a medical certificate must be able to present showing that they maintain a healthy weight. Also edited photos must be under this bill a disclaimer, so that it is clear that models in Photoshop were updated. There was not really enthusiastic reactions from the industry on this proposal, and also weekend.be wrote that weight is not a great measure of general health. It is very easy to make yourself by means of drinking a lot of water a few pounds more to make roads, and the BMI method is even by nutritionists, barely used.
Moreover, that kind of numbers very little room for interpretation and says nothing about the way of life of a model – how often, varied and healthy eats them, sport them and wears them care for themselves. There are also girls who are naturally a really fast metabolism, and that, how much they eat – do not seem to come. This can be for them the end of their career mean, and for them is yet again a stab to the fact that she “doesn’t look like they are there to hear to see”. Also that is body image. It seems to us better to not blind staring at numbers on a scale, and perhaps the example of Denmark to follow. Their Fashion Ethical Charter required models regular medical check-up (blood tests) to let you do and want them healthy eating and exercise, but leave the numbers as weight and BMI from the file.
‘Living coat hooks’
You would be yourself, of course, also be wondering why there necessarily appeal needs to be done only slender girls, and whether we are next to the safeguard of the health of the models also do not need to strive for a broader understanding of who or what belongs on the catwalk. Stylist Katia Alens gave last month on the radio show “The gang of Annemie’ that they are girls who are more than maatje 34 have back home will send, because “magerslank now once more beautiful looks on the picture or on television”. Although you rarely really sickly skinny models (already proven by the study that you are not sickly skinny must look to be ill) is ‘thin’ for many people working in the fashion industry and still is the only possible interpretation of modelwaardig.
According to a study by the National Eating Disorders Association weighed models twenty years ago, usually 8% less than the average woman. Today, they weigh 23% less. It is no secret that most fashion designers hyperslanke girls give preference to their clothing to show the audience. Undercoverjournaliste Imogen Edwards-Jones did in 2006 in her bestselling book ‘Fashion Babylon’ all anonymous to some of these designers to the word who admitted that they like models are used which are extremely thin as their clothing in this way, most resembled the original sketch, in 2D.
According to a study by the National Eating Disorders Association weighed models twenty years ago, usually 8% less than the average woman. Today, they weigh 23% less
. “Ultimately, serve these girls, not as women, but as a living coat hooks”. Most designers are visionaries, writes Edwards-Jones, perfectionists who find that they have art to create, and not dwell on the fact that their art, at a certain moment, a commercial has to be. “Those who complain that models are not realistic has mode not understood,” said a designer in Fashion Babylon. “Fashion revolves around aspiration, not to democracy.”
This way of thinking, which, for the sake of clarity, certainly not all fashion designers to share, is the starting point for a very complex problem, make a note of a former editor-in-chief of Vogue Australia Kirstie Clements in 2013 in her book The Vogue Factor. “Designers use more and thinner pasmodellen, girls who the majority of their time on a drip in the hospital, walking skeletons almost. These are the bodies which created the clothing, the clothing on the runway sent is and then available for shoots. We get sometimes couturejurken within that rather resemble doopjaponnen, so small are they, but when we the label to a different size, just ask we are told that that is not available. If we want to wear clothes shoot, then we must be looking for models in those clothes fit,” says Clements.
Need for diversity
It is this vicious circle where the researchers from Harvard, Northeastern and the Model Alliance to an end. After the publication of the first results signed 35 models including Karen Elson and Iskra Lawrence in an open letter to the (American) fashion industry and designers. They call for the health of the models they employ in the first place and to diversity in terms of race, age and physique to guarantee on the catwalk. “Together, we are challenging you to make a serious commitment to promote health and diversity on the runway. Through our social media platforms, which collectively reach millions of people, we will recognize the industry leaders who step up to this challenge,” as it says in the letter.
It is not the only letter that all eyes in the fashion week New York draws. Also The CFDA – the council of American fashion designers – has an e-mail circulated in which they American designers and show runners encourage the catwalks “as healthy and diverse as possible”. You want to ensure is worn for the mental well-being of the girls in this stressful period, and that take into account the diversity on the runway. “Our goal is to bring change in how we models with dark skin, so we normally go to find that they also in large numbers to show on the catwalk” was. The mail also refers to the tips of the Us Diversity Coalition, that designers are under more encouraging to modeling agencies specific to colored girls to ask “you should not count on the agent anyway, a few dark skins to your casting will come”.