During the regiofinales in the run-up to the International Woolmark Prize have also signed two Belgians present. Designer Kim Stumpf took part in the category womenswear.
The Woolmark Prize is a reference in the modelandschap. The price for the first time in 1953 by the International Wool Secretariat in life was called, was won by a then very young Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent. Today, the International Woolmark Prize not only as a stepping stone to a thriving career, but also as a portfolio for the creativity of young designers and the versatility of wool as a material.
This year more than 75 designers from 62 countries -selected by the fashion press and other competent authorities – to this honor. For the real competition can erupt had the proverbial chaff from the wheat can be separated in six regiofinales. There are always two finalists – one for menswear and one for womenswear – selected and invited to the international final.
In Milan fought two Belgians to the coveted ticket for the semi-finals, which will take place during the London Collections Men (men’s line) or Haute Couture in Paris (women) in January. Kim Stumpf and Devon Halfnight Leflufy defended our tricolour, but handles just next to the price.
Kim Stumpf first studied sculpture, painting and fashion at the Antwerp Academy but graduated in 2007 as a fashion designer at La Cambre in Brussels. After her studies she gained experience at Haider Ackermann, Vivienne Westwood and Robert Clergerie. Her own KIMSTUMPF label is made in Belgium and boasts high-quality materials and innovative techniques, such as laser cutting, laminating and screen-printing.
What served as the inspiration for your silhouette?
Kim Stumpf: “I’m very intrigued by the Suri, a tribe in Ethiopia where lichaamsmodificatie still a large part of the ideal of beauty. These black people paint themselves with white paint and create patterns on their skin in their own skin to scratches to scars to form. There was one picture of the tribe which I the entire collection for Woolmark’ve built up.”
How is the silhouette that you exhibit asked to come about?
KS: “The rhythms on the skins of these people also come in abstracted form back in the dress, the white paint-lines are given were translated to patterns in the knitting. In this one dress like this there are ten different jacquardtechnieken processed. I have manufactured it on my stoll machine, a time consuming task, but in the meantime this is the pattern in there, making me tens of thousands of dresses could make the case that I win.” (laughs).
I also saw quite an impressive shoes…
ME: “Glad you are at that start because they are really the basis of my silhouette. I have from bottom to top worked and was assisted by Robert Clergerie. I’ve ever a private training had me when he took me in 2007 from a whole range of La Cambre students uitpikte to under his wings. “La Belge qui drappe le cuir” he called me. That boot that I for this collection have designed consists of a sole of polyurethane, a leather muiltje in the shoe that your foot nice holding and knitting.”
Knit is very popular in the schoenenwereld the last time – especially at sneakerproducenten. How is that do you think?
KS: “It is a very innovative technology and it’s still insanely easy because it so nicely fits. In addition, there is also the ecological aspect: thanks to the new machines you have no ounce of excess of dust – it is almost 3D-printed once your pattern has been entered – and you can to the stitch precise.”
We are actually well educated on modevlak? Understand the Belgian consumer how much work there is in a piece of creeps?
KS: “Certainly not. For the development of this dress, we have six days, six days, of course, you must pay out. It is therefore not only very intensive but also very expensive. Therefore, I believe in a way to make your design, and there than effects.”
You are clearly passionate about knitwear, it is always been like that?
KS: “Not necessarily. When I still studied, in 2006, I was selected by Lineapiù, an Italian spinning mill that high fashion yarn produces. I could, for them, an expo for the breibeurs Pitti Fillati. I was given full carte blanche and they sent me all the yarn I needed, a dream, as a student, of course. I was also on with them on a company visit and I really do my heart is lost.”
How important is this award for a young designer like you?
KS: “I don’t know if you me still young can hear, you can take part until you get to 35e and I am now 34 so it is my last chance.” (grins) But of course, this is an important point in my career, it feels a bit like crunch time, but even though I win not, I hope that I have some useful contacts to overhou.”
It is not an easy sector where your dream is of course
KS: “I think that you are indeed millions of euro’s need to realize something today. In the past you had to just have talent, and if you have a good designer than you came there. Today you have to compete against giant companies with outrageous marketing budgets. But well, this is my passion and that is not easy to stop. Even in the middle of the night can I get out of my bed to check whether a certain thread is already within. Fortunately, I have always been a go-getter.”
View the winning designs here