We have selected the most heart-warming and hopeful events on and off the catwalk. A ban on angorawol and leather from pineapple to the interpretation of the word ‘nude’ means the sector of proves that the (sometimes) much more than physical appearance
1. Attention to physical limitations
In 2016, there was in the world of fashion, attention to physical limitations. So it worked Tommy Hilfiger together with Runway of Dreams, to a first clothing line with custom designs for young people with physical disabilities to achieve.
Lauren Wasser knew a place on the runway of Chromat at New York Fashion Week to get hold of, and pulled the campaign from fashion label Julia June. Both clients were able to easily look beyond Scrubbers prosthetic leg and saw a talented model. Lifestyleplatform Refinery29 did a bikinishoot in which women with a physical disability pride for the lens, posed and candid interviews took.
2. The reinterpretation of “nude” or skin color
Display an image with the word “huidskleurig”. The chances are that this image differs from person to person, depending on what color he or she has. Yet it is the fashion and interieurwereld usually reasonably agree on how “nude” looks like: a sort of beige-pink that only 16% of the world’s population matches the colour of our arms and abdomen. When people have a “nude” bra to wear or a bandage stick will be that indeed more or less blend seamlessly with her own skin color, but for those with a dark or even olive skin is “nude” just a color like so many others, and is the connotation of skin color, not even made.
In 2016, the term ‘nude’ more diversified and completed. The popular online retailer Asos started underwear Nubian Skin to sell (‘huidskleurig’ underwear in different shades) and also the sporty fashion label Björn Borg has launched a ondergoedcollectie in 6 different skin tones, based on the official huidtypeschema of Fitzpatrick. ‘Nude is not a color, it is a concept that everyone should apply”, sounds at Björn Borg. With their ‘Six shades or human’ the label wants to make clear that this inequality the world want to help.
Not only the ondergoedindustrie benefit from a broader interpretation of the term ‘color’: balletwereld. The reason that balletschoenenin the colors beige and pink, after all, so they are the same colors as the feet of the dancers: it appears that their legs are longer and it almost seems as if they were barefoot dancing. Eric Underwood was tired of his balletschoenen time had with a good layer of dark make-up before he could act. The ballet dancer has launched a call via Instagram and got positive response from the brand Bloch.
And finally, there was also the Lebanese-Brazilian blogger Habiba Da Silva that skin color as a way to unite. She has created a collection of scarves in different skin tones, though it is not (necessarily) intended that everyone have the corresponding color around the head stores.
“We don’t want to say that people only one color can wear or have to stick to the same hue as their own skin color. It comes to inclusiveness, mixing, love, and togetherness, ” says Da Silva. The hijabi’s, moreover, can by men be worn as a scarf, and are unisex.
3. Armani bans fur
The Armani Group has, in 2016, announced that it is no longer fur will use in its products, beginning with the 2016 herfstcollecties.
“I am pleased to announce that the Armani group has a strong commitment to the use of fur from her collections, to banish. By the technological progress of the last few years, we have useful alternatives to our decision that the cruel practices on animals unnecessarily. After all the times progressive developments pursued to take my business now is a great step forward by focusing our attention on important topics such as protecting and caring for the environment and animals.”
The Armani Group was allowed to make this decision the PETA award for Biggest Luxury Fashion Moment in receipt
4. Head scarves as part of the multicultural reality
Let it be clear: muslim women are still more often the victim of hate crimes than muslim men, and on job applications, they are triple discriminated against, namely on the basis of gender, ethnicity and religion. Especially women who wear a headscarf have a very difficult time. This is evident from a report on the impact of islamophobia on muslim women in eight countries, including Belgium.
Everyone remembers the warm months of 2016 when the summer, in which a muslim woman by two French agents required her revealing clothes off under the guise of the new boerkiniwetgeving, but are there also positive reactions have emerged, such as the many messages our editors received on this wetsuitshopping to the hypocrisy of the measure. Although the ban in France would undoubtedly have negative signals, let Aheda Zanetti, the Australian inventor of the boerkini, know that the ban has ensured that the online sale of its zwemkledij with 200% increase.
The hijab and the boerkini as part of the identity of the women was still more confirmed when the British kickbokskampioene Ruqsana Begum hijabs from breathable lycra, it was that the sports facilitate. Also fashion designer Anniesa Hasibuan has paved the path through all of her models during her show at New York Fashion Week with a matching, luxurious hijab.
A scarf should of course have a free choice to remain, and that is still hardly the case in Iran, where since the Islamic Revolution of 1979, women are obliged to wear a headscarf to wear in public. There is, however, quite a bit has changed since 1979 and the Iranian women are more apply. Earlier came the news that they have their hair cut and dress up as a man to have more freedom to get or that they have the social media to bombard with photos without headscarf: in 2016 cast also men into the battle on a massive headscarf to wear in solidarity with women. They formed themselves, through the action group My Stealthy Freedom.
5. Stylish hospital clothing
Every day the same have put on is not good for your mood, every day is a ziekenhuisschort should omknopen is completely depressing. Anyone who thinks that people have other concerns on their minds during a hospitaalopname has probably equal, but still good to have a look at what effect a well-designed ziekenhuisschort, such as those of the Flemish label Inga Welbeing , on your morality. In teenagers, who like to profile through their appearance, can have such a depressing togs their zest for life diminish – especially when they are weeks or even months to be doomed to this vale choice. When they are the creations of the Canadian Ward+Robe attracting them live again at all.
6. Body positivity was a topic of discussion
Sabine Peeters and Anke Wauters brought their much-discussed books on body image, but also in the world of fashion was the b-word on everyone’s agenda. So said fashion label ModCloth plus their plussize section to drop and the dress just under the rest of the offer, promised Women’s Health Magazine the word “bikini body” for the good of the cover to fend off and picked up Sports Illustrated first with a curvy model, and later with a man in his fifties on the cover. Several magazines tried to find a more diverse modellenaabon, already got that in modebijbel Vogue a bitter aftertaste when some of the big brands refused to plus-size covergirl Ashley Graham to dress.
Fortunately, there was in 2016, and also the inclusive ondergoedshoot of Aerie and the hopeful petition of the future fashion designers to the AmericanParsons School of Design to be more curvy mannequins in their classrooms . “We only have one plus-size mannequin for a thousand students.” The integration of plus-size models remains a major issue in the fashion industry. The integration of larger sizes in the typical modesegment begins with the training of the designers. If they are on the school not the right tools to get to their clothes in larger sizes to design, they remain the same maatje 36 reproduce. A trend that is also in their further career will continue.
The runway of the Indian fashion week was also for the first time, a realistic representation of the Indian population. A lot of brands have opted for realistic plus size models. That plus size is not an empty term in India: this are women whose size is above XXL is – no women with an average size 42-44 as in Europe and America is often the case. India is the third most obese country in the world, according to a study from 2014, and he organisers of the fashion week, hoping that the clothes that they present a little bit more “accessible” for the spectators.
7. Attention for refugees
Fashion is a reflection of society and current events, so it is only logical that the refugees are discussed. At the Genk Studio Refugee , for example, a place where designers and refugees together products, design and knowledge exchange, language barriers exceeds. Refugees told their stories through handmade calligraphy pens to even birdhouses and T-shirts to design.
The American modestudente Angela Luna has designed a complete collection of weather-resistant multi-purpose garment with the (Syrian) refugees in the mind. Jackets with built-in backpack that zipped shut can be to, sleeping bag, or transformed to tent: Luna’s creativity and humanity was rewarded with a Eyes on Talent Womenswear Designer of the Year, and an Innovations award.
The notion that women (or men!) with a larger size no crop tops, skinny jeans, bikinis, exciting shirts or short shorts would wear is not only offensive style advice, it is also nonsense. Experimenting with fashion is for anyone. During the summer of 2016 celebrated the hashtag #WeWearWhatWeWant rampant.
9. Women over
Gender equality is in many sectors a noble pursuit, but unfortunately still a utopia. The modeindustrie is no exception, with mainly men who almost all the important functions -both business and creative – within the business for their account. Best ironic since women are the vast majority are within their customer base. However, consent to the appointment of Bouchra icipated in Lanvin and Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior (as the first woman at the head of that label) us optimistic about the future – especially when these women the focus on women.
It was the first collection of Chuiri for the iconic French fashion house is completely in character of women and feminism. In its SS17 campaign attracts them to that theme. The photographer Brigitte Lacombe got twin sisters Ruth and May Bell for the lens. These photos are part of a larger project entitled “The Women Behind The Lens’. For this project to be exclusively female photographers invited to submit their personal vision of the collection. In this series we also see the now iconic T-shirt with the slogan “We Should All Be Feminists’ that struck me during the show in september.
Work shirts conquered during the Us presidential elections, even though the streetscape. Where the“I” m With Her’merchandise is still a direct endorsement was made, evolved the ‘Nasty Woman’, totebags, t-shirts and coffee mugs to badges of honor for women who are not ashamed to fight for what they believe, to unperturbed to requirements to which they are entitled and are not afraid to give their opinion.
10. The inclusive feesttruien of Whoopi
Actress and activist Whoopi Goldberg has a collection of 14 festive sweaters are designed more to portray than the traditional reindeer and christmas trees, and they are certainly not all in the christmas spirit. There is also a Kwanzaa-, Ramadan and Hanukkah-version. And that’s not all, because there is a sweater in which a white and a black santa claus to kiss each other. “The holidays – regardless of what you believe – would a day, week or a month should be when we all are together.”
11. Alternative textile
Sustainable textiles are textiles that lasts a long time, and in the case of Herschel Supply Co., the famous back – and reistassenmerk: textiles that can self-repair. They did appeal to Sealtech, a material that itself can be sealed by means of the heat of the palm of your hand.
In 2016, it took the world a lot of alternatives for commonly used textiles such as cotton or leather, materials which dieronvriendelijk or polluting. . In Ghent opened ReaGent, a lab where you can experiment with the ‘growing’ of material that you as an alternative for textiles can bet, in Antwerp uses the schoenenatelier Collectif d’anvers vissenleer made from waste from the fishing. Two young Germans brought under the name Bleed a durable “leather” of cork on the market and the company Piñatex has again found a way to make the waste of the pineapple to be recycled to a kind of leather. Australian researchers are now experimenting a lot with using kombucha as a base for a vegan leather and modestudente Lara Warson ‘turns’ her substances with mold.
The most extraordinary in the list is probably Tina Gorjanc. The British student wants for her graduation project Pure Human skin to grow from the DNA of the late Alexander McQueen, to that skin then tanning and there coats and bags. Although the idea of our first somewhat did abominations put Gorjanc with her Pure Human it was an important precedent. It develops, namely in a laboratory and bred leather where there are no animals to be slaughtered, and because she manages to have a certain skin tone is almost identical to approach can cosmetics companies its technology is also used for dermatological dierenproeven in the future to avoid.
12. Ideal man will get smacks
Men just like women suffer from stereotypes, expectations and guidance about their appearance and about the concept of masculinity. That also confirmed Laith Ashley , one of the first transgender men who also as a model of success harvest. “I’m lucky that I have a muscular and masculine appearance have. Transgender people who do not meet that ideal of the gender with which they identify requirements, have the still difficult, ” says Laith this year. Also Benjamin Melzer is well equipped with shoulders and six pack, that, to him, this year the cover of the German edition of men’s magazine Men’s Health resulted in, despite the fact that Benjamin is still only 4 years ago, his transformation to a male body underwent.
Way of the sixpacks, there was the success of male plus-size model Zach Miko and the start-up of Bruce Sturgell. Chubstr is a online destination for the stylish man with a larger size. The mission of Chubstr is to help men who are larger sizes than the standard sizes to have their own style. To draw attention to the problem of unrealistic advertising and ideals which also the men who are weighed down reworked the British tabloid the Sun, famous male ondergoedreclamecampagnes with ‘ordinary’ men.
Finally, there was also the work of photographer Laurence Philomene that some men in front of the lens in unusual settings for the lens placed. Her ‘Dreamboats’ series got thus a lot of stereotypes down.
13. Richard Quinn wins H&M Design Award
The prestigious H&M Design Award goes to Richard Quinn, a former intern for Stella McCartney , who specialises in sustainable, luxury women’s wear, but also in textiles. With his prize money he wants to invest in a textielstudio which is freely accessible, so that young designers can walk when they want to and fabrics at affordable prices can buy. “Everything will be there in an ethical way and be done,” said Quinn. “The craftsmanship takes place in London and everything is also in an ecological way manufactured, so we can’t harm the environment.” Quinn, his winning collection in production in collaboration with the Swedish fashion chain.
14. Practical issues of transgender people got attention
Transgendermodellen are increasingly used, but in 2016, they were not only approached because of their appearance, but it was also listened to their practical vestimentaire problems. For example, the American company GC2ba line corrective onderhemdjes in 5 different skin tones on the market that the fat around the upper body shrinks making it seem as if you have no breasts – no small detail for transgender people that no operation can execute.
Most people who have their breasts wanted to hide from the naked eye unions, these are generally by yourself by means of drukverbanden or tape, but that non-supervised methods bring various health problems, such as damage or bruising of organs, the build up of fluid in the lungs and difficulty breathing. With All the Nude line of GC2b – where you can go swimming – can transgendered people are hassle-free to dress how they want, without the society or their own body, them stands in the way.
15. Black Models Matter
It is slim pickings with diversity in the fashion world, even in the year 2016. On average, had less than 25% of the models during the latest fashion weeks in the four big cities are a different color than roomblank. 75.25% of the models on the catwalk was white. This can be seen as a small progress compared to SS16, then, 77.6% were white, and opposite FW15 then 80% of Caucasian origin.
For the summer season were 236 large modecampagnes with 422 different models are examined, which revealed that only 21.8% of the models a darker colored skin had – that’s less than a quarter. The most recent season in the advertising industry, had 76.7% white models, 11.2% of the remaining jobs was reserved for black women.
Yet, there were also clear signals that this is not okay, for example during the fashion show of Yeezy, the label of Kanye West. He sent only models of other origin the catwalk. Zac Posen chose for 87% non-white models and Chromat wins the third place (85%).
There was a loud and clear protest, inter alia, by model Ashley B. Chew that during the fashion weeks for the lenses of dozens of streetstylefotografen posed with her handbag which she with lederverf the words “Black Models Matter” had painted it. Also the Liberian Deddeh Howard raised the diversiteitsprobleem in fashion with its Black Mirror Project, in which they famous white advertising campaigns again shootte with himself in the starring role.
The most noise was, however, made by Instagram, The social media app gave a platform to a diverse range of models, that do not fit within the conventional world of fashion. With the hashtag #RunwayForAll showed instagram via their own account that mainstream ideals of beauty, not apply to everyone and that it is time that the fashion scene that acknowledges. The hashtag went viral.
16. Honest by get flagship
In 2010 realized Bruno Pieters that he could no longer be grounded in the conventional fashion. He was burned out and got a burn-out. He stopped at Hugo Boss and doekte also his own label. After two years of the radar to disappear, a period in which he traveled, he made his comeback with Honest By in 2012. His new fashion label is durable, transparent and successful. In 2016, he opened a flagshipstore in Antwerp
In 2016, we took a little leave of gegenderde clothing and gegenderde catwalk shows. As demonstrated in Tom Ford ladies are – if herenlijnop the same catwalk during the fashion week of New York. Also, Vêtements, Burberry, Gucci and Bottega Veneta merged their lines with mixed shows. Officially because the designers will present their creative vision more clearly able to express himself, but also because the boundaries between male and female is much weaker, especially in clothing, especially because we are in 2016 also had to say goodbye to some crossdressende icons.
This trend continued, of course, also for the retail. Zara brought a Ungenderd collection on the market (though some a missed opportunity), and also Guess came with HisHers on the gpu.
The Dutch multibrandstore Cloakroomheld at the launch of their webshop, then again take into account the current trend and introduced at the categories in addition to the usual ‘Men’ and ‘Women’ introduced the multi-brand storeook the category ‘Neutral’, where gendervrije collections of different brands for sale. The real step forward is when stores both online and offline, their clothing is no longer a gender would offer. Let that be a good intention for 2017.
18. Pressure from PETA does sales down and angorawol plunging
The long hairs of the angora rabbit are so soft and versatile, the garment industry was located there for many years, eager to credit has done – often to the detriment of the animals that are in a very painful way to be kaalgeplukt. Animal rights organisation PETA bond three years ago to fight these practices, and it shows in 2016 as the winner out of the bus to come. More than 100 major brands, including Calvin Klein, Topshop, Uniqlo, Zara, H&M and Ralph Lauren schrapten the use of angorawol from their production process – what the trade angora also drastically did plummet. In addition, also said big labels like Topshop, Hobbs, Warehouse, Primark and Oasis in 2016 to focus on the banned from a stand in their collections after PETA’s exposé of the cruel down industry.
The way PETA has managed to angorawol and down largely to eliminate or in any case the awareness of it to tighten up says not only something about how the animal rights organisation in the last few years is seen by the fashion industry – which PETA used to be depicted as a gang of extremists – but also about how the consumer of today is consuming.
19. Fair fashion show good cause for emancipation
During the Fair Fashion Talks could Safia Minney to spread the message that sustainable fashion opportunities it can create for women. Her sustainable fashion brand People Tree work together with various women’s organizations worldwide.
“We focus on organizations that work with women from rural areas, so that the workers can live and work in a pleasant, quiet environment. They get paid a fair wage and at the same time continue to care for their children. Also, they can with this fair wage sending their children to school. ‘By women paid a fair wage for their handiwork, you can give them a better life in their own community.”
20. Post-Couture Collective
In 2016, there was also the collaboration of Post-Couture with alumni of the Antwerp fashion academy. The Post Couture Collective works to a worldwide community of designers who are willing open source patterns to offer you for a small fee you can purchase and download. With that pattern, you step to a ‘makerspace’ in your area where you make your own clothing piece tailor let lasercutten and you can convert it without having any technical experience.
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