The modern man can herademen. Literally, with outfits that are more playful and relaxed. Get less tight, streetwear remains irrepressibly comfortable, and here and there even delves a Disney character on.
TREND 1: THE NEW EASTERN BLOC
If meewarige teenagers, around the middle of the eighties, we were fascinated by the eastern Bloc. We wore vintage Sovjetpins, militeerden at the Red Youth, and traveled to Budapest. A year or two later, came down the Wall, and Eastern Europe invaded by mass tourism and German retail chains. There remained the mystery behind the Iron Curtain little about it.
But in 2017 will give the aesthetics of that eastern Bloc the show, led by relatively young designers and Demna Gvsalia (Vetements and Balenciaga) and Gosha Rubchinskiy. Rubchinskiy, which is located in Moscow, and its advance began as a photographer of skatekids, a bit like the pied piper of Hamelin : his customer base is young and dedicated – not to say fanatical ; he finds the models for his shows between his followers on Instagram ; and in January, he managed to show a lot of fashion professionals from Kaliningrad to lure.
His trademark is owned by Comme des Garçons and the clothes are remarkably affordable – a T-shirt costs less than 50 euros – and they belong more in the universe of the Supreme (p. 35) than that of Vetements. “My clothes have more in common with a T-shirt of a band you would like to see it than with fashion,” said Gosha last year in the former Florentine tobacco factory, where he by director Pasolini-inspired summer collection for 2017, as presented. “I want my clothes to show zestienjarigen, because that is the age of my customers.”
The show in Italy seemed to be an echo of the earliest, by gabbers and Kraftwerk-inspired shows of Raf Simons, in the late nineties. Coincidentally, or perhaps not, showed Simon a day later, in Florence his own new collection, a tribute to Robert Mapplethorpe (p. 33), a gay icon, like Pasolini. Simons together with Hedi Slimane, the main mannenmodeontwerper of his generation, and his collection was, objectively, better than that of Gosha. But it was Gosha – with his boys in sportplunje of Fila by Gosha, and Sergio Tacchini by Gosha – that hit us.
TREND 2: SIGHT UNSEEN
Camouflageprints of all times. This season the military look has something grungy: landloperchic, rather than soldatenplunje. Dries Van Noten processed flowers in his camo. Riccardo Tisci did the same with dollar bills, in his almost-swansong for Givenchy.
TREND 3: THE BOLD SHOULDER
Wide-shouldered suits are already a few seasons on the rise. But this summer peak to the trend, with thanks to Demna Gvsalia at Balenciaga. All it takes is the click here for the megaschouder the winkelstraatketens reached. Such as David Byrne, in the early eighties, a pioneer of the XXL-suit, then sang: “You can ask yourself …
TREND 4: ONESIES
It’s been a while since we got Justin Bieber in a onesie seen
. And yet: the garagistentenue
is far from played out.
TREND 5: PARKAS
Parkas, preferably of parachutestof. For a Marilyn-Monroe-on-metrorooster-effect, but then virieler.
TREND 6: GETTING CAUGHT
Backpacks and other bags this season, an oversized (like suits and hoodies). Biggeris better. Note also the influence of the bergbeklimmerstijl, especially at Prada, but also Gucci and Lanvin. Who very meeis, also a pair of sneakers, or half to his backpack dangle.
SHORT, NO VERY SHORT SHORTS
A LOT OF YELLOW