Each season The Fashion Spot is a large diversiteitsrapport of what the recent fashion month on the catwalks. Good news: autumn-winter 2017-2018 was the most diverse season ever, though there is still work to be done.
The Fashion Spot took 241 shows and 7035 gecaste models of New York, London, Milan and Paris under the microscope for these results.
Race and skin color
The good news first: there have never been more women with colored skin on the catwalk walked in over the last few weeks. In all four fashion capitals, together was 72,1% of the gecaste models blank, 27,9% had a different skin color. That is 2,5% more than last season, and 3.2% more than last year.
New York had the most colored models (31,5%) – each show is that The Fashion Spot has included in the list had at least one non-white model. The American CFDA had on the eve of the fashion weeks casting directors and designers are called upon to bring diversity to reflect during their shows and it seems like this to heart has been taken by New York had, after all, also the most of the plus-size and all transgender models this season on a runway were allowed to walk (but more on that later.) London was not evil, and saw the largest improvement in all four cities with nearly 5%: 28,4% of the models in the British capital put to work for Fashion Week had a tan, in september this was only 23,5%. Paris and Milan fulfill, and as always, the last two places, but went there every season since TFS began to track forward.
The most diverse shows in terms of race and skin color were Gypsy Sport, Chromat, Kimora Lee Simmons, Kanye West and Marc Jacobs. The worst pupils were Undercover, Trussardi, and Junya Watanabe, where no single non-white model as well.
In the total (the survey shows) were plus-size models good for 0,43% of the models during Fashion Month: 30 plus-size women were cast in the 11 shows, most of them in New York took place.
This season, there were 21 models older than fifty in the runwayshows of New York, Paris, London and Milan, accounting for 0.29% of the total. That is still very little, but in any case, already a significant improvement in comparison with last season (13 models older than fifty) and last year (5 models older than fifty).
For FW17-18 each had modehoofstad at least two older models cast. In London, walked seven models older than fifty, New York and Milan did each appeal on six ladies, and Paris in two.
One of those two women was Vivienne Westwood, the show of its former namesake label ran. Also Dries Van Noten did his best and castte a reunion of 54 models which all before him had gone since 1993. There were in their thirties (Liya Kebede, Alek Wek), forties (Trish Goff, Sylvia van der Klooster, Michele Hicks and Kristina de Coninck) and a sixth (Cecilia Chancellor). Thirty, forty and fifty, of course, is not yet ‘old’, but for the modellensector is that, unfortunately, is already “a pretty long career”.
One of the most diverse shows on the basis of gender, the body and the age was, surprisingly enough, that of Dolce & Gabbana in Milan. 120 models and non-models of different ages, skin colors and ages were trotted out to the najaarscollectie of the Italian duo to present to the fashion press.
Transgender people are getting more and more visibility and that is also reflected on the catwalks. Although only 0.17% of the gecaste models transgender was, the sector still ahead. 12 transgendervrouwen if the FW17-18 collection present, while that for SS17, only 10 were in FW16-17 even eight. The twelve transgendermodellen all were in New York – Now Riccardo Tisci Givenchy has left was his muse Lea T her fixed spot on the fashion week of Paris, not more secure. The lion’s share of the transgendermodellen walked in shows that are known for their unconventional casting, such as The Blonds, Gypsy Sport, Philipp Plein, and Chromat.
Generally, we see inclusiveness are increasingly gaining ground – there have never been more women of color or women over forty on a catwalk stood as last season, but we are still not there, also says Sara Ziff of The Model Alliance, The Fashion Spot. She warns against tokenism – the hiring of models within the industry are a minority to the attention to settle. The Fashion Spot will close with the words of Gary Dakin of JAG Models: “we will only be successful to call it when we don’t have to think about it, when we simply women of all sizes, ages and breeds on the catwalks to see without having newsworthiness on to attach.”
Read the full diversiteitsrapport of The Fashion Spot here