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A look in the workshop of donsjassenspecialist Herno

They made jackets for everyone, from Prada to Louis Vuitton, until they twelve years ago, we decided only to concentrate on their own brand, Herno.

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

The office of Claudio Marenzi is in the middle of the design, surrounded by a jumble of memorabilia. There is a painted portrait of his mother, flanked by the flag of his favorite football team, his old army uniform and a picture of the Japanese empress in a jacket from Herno. Only some carefully placed racks of clothes to give to the CEO of the Italian jassenmerk a bit of privacy. And so he wants to be: open and accessible, as the beating heart of the company. Marenzi is next CEO of Herno also the director of the fashion trade Pitti and the driving force behind the label ‘Made in Italy’. He is committed to the Italian fashion again on the map of the world, just as he did that in the early 2000s with Herno did.

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

The jassenspecialist

Herno was shortly after the Second world War, founded by Claudio’s parents, Giuseppe Marenzi and his wife Alessandra, in a village on the banks of the Lago Maggiore. The brand owes its name to the river Erno, which is next to the business flows. Because in the region of a lot of rain, they decided coats of coated cotton. In the sixties, jackets in cashmere and gradually also costumes and dresses. The business went well and Herno expanded far beyond Europe. Opened by Giuseppe Marenzi in 1971 as one of the first Italians with a shop in Japan. Their expertise as well as the ‘jassenspecialist’ aroused the interest of other fashion houses. In the eighties and nineties, came across Herno therefore a lower priority and made the Marenzi’s especially jackets for other brands, such as Jil Sander, Prada, Gucci, Giorgio Armani and Louis Vuitton.

When Claudio Marenzi, in 2005, the daily management of the family business takes over, he decides the helm again to throw: he will stop all collaborations with other brands and gets Herno again covered with dust. He launches the Ultralight Down Jacket, a light down jacket of goose down, in no time, becomes the bestseller of the brand. The production happens in the Herno-plant in Romania, the rest of the collection is in Sicily. In the headquarters of Herno in Lesa, where also Marenzi’s desk, today only prototypes made. Thirty to forty pieces a day. The focus is on innovation: new materials, techniques and methods of production are, together with scientists from the university of Bologna developed. Not far from the head office, Marenzi a few years ago a large distribution center built. Every jacket that outdoors made, will first back to Lesa for a final check-up. And thus, and leave everything where it is seventy years ago for Herno all began, at the mouth of the Erno.

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

In the studio of the Italian jassenspecialist Herno in Lesa today only prototypes made. © Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

© Wouter Van Vaerenbergh

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